Ethiopia Week 1

Anne: Welllll….sometimes it's hard to believe that a week has already gone by and on the other hand it seems like we've been here forever.The last you heard of us was last weekend? It was a good weekend…carefree and curious. Then Monday….. Monday was my first day of work. I was up realllly early, eager for the start of my assignment…mind whirling about "things to do." I prepped…"others" slept, unaware that a new day had started…or that I had even left the room!!!!

Judy: I knew you were awake....you were noisy!

Anne: I arrived at EHNRI (Ethiopian Health and Nutrition Research Institute) after acquiring a car and driver. I have to look after myself!!! Had to wear my "big girl bloomers"!!!!Met with my colleagues then I was promptly ignored….holed up in Peter's office (CDC). I read master plans, CLSI documents, all the while wondering if anybody was going to talk to me. So, when bored what do I do….call Judy! We have phones with Ethiopian numbers, so I can keep track of her!!

Judy:...it is my job to serve her!

Anne: On Sunday she was all gung ho to go roaming around the city. She was going to walk here and there…meeting the people and getting the feel the Addis Ababa. I gave up trying to talk her out of it, knowing that it would only encourage her!! 

Judy: Hmmmmm

Anne: But then Monday morning I heard this little voice say "I think I'll stay put and rest today…I have lots of time to roam around". True After checking to make sure it was actually Judy talking…I gave a little "Pheww" and ran off to greet the day. Then I called…
After rambling about my morning I asked what she had been up to….and I heard "I wasn't going to tell you this…but"! My first thought was (1) Oh my god, she adopted a couple of kids and they are in the room and (2) oh my god, she got married and now all the family is in the room……because she's been on her own for at least 5 hours!!!! But no, it was "I left my carbamezapene at home". Her anti-seizure meds.I could tell that she was upset and I was stunned for a bit, but we did a little bit of brainstorming and with that fake laugh…signed off.

Judy: Ditto 
Anne: Well we both did some spinning…me with my CDC co-worker and ready to call the Canadian Embassy here in Addis and Jude back with Google, internet, and Hilton Addis Ababa. The bottom line…they have a clinic at the Hilton…the doctor was in who wrote a script…the concierge took the script and sent someone to the pharmacy ….and lo and behold…in Ethiopia…Judy got a month worth of drugs for a $25 consult and about the same for meds.

Judy: AND friends forever at the front desk concierge!!! AND, I made lots of friends with staff also in the clinic!

Anne: Back at EHNRI, I finally met with my co-workers at 4pm. We hammered out deadlines and duties…and let's just say I have a lot of work to do. Then by 5:30 I packed up and headed back to the hotel.It was a big day!! To celebrate drugs and first day of work, we went over to The Sheraton for dinner. The hotel itself is wayyy over the top…belongs in Saudi. So I figured the Christmas decorations would be impressive….and they didn't let us down. Unfortunately I left my camera at home, so no proof. J But it was extremely opulent and the perfect way to end that rollercoaster day. Hard to believe a few hours earlier we were ready to put Judy on a plane and send her home!!

Judy: HEY I didn't know that was the plan!!!

Anne: Tuesday I was given my own cubicle in the CDC wing of EHNRI. Very grandiose!! I set out my new pencils, pens, sticky notes, laptop..then after an hour was told I was in the wrong cubicle and had to move!! L Oye vey….. Had lots of meetings…found that I have even more work to do especially since they don't have any policies written but expect a quality manual!!! So guess what I'm doing first! After work it was a flurry of emails and skype calls back to the US. And at 8pm, we are ordering pizza from room service. How sad is that????? But you know…Ethiopia has the best pizza. The Italians "tried" to take over the country for a spell…didn't succeed but left behind some good recipes. J The other one or "Dingledrawers" as I call her…once again stayed in the compound.

Judy: I also have choices for names for Anne!

Anne: Spent time reading, doing her language on the balcony or in the Gazebo by the pool. That's where I found her…talking out loud….to herself….telling neighbouring dinners that she wasn't crazy!!! Hmmm….glad I was at work!! :0 True Wednesday was a blur…even more work but nothing has been surprising yet.

There was another quiet day at the Hilton. Jude touched base with the clinic doc, ventured out a bit, then spent the day reading and doing her language. We decided to be "wild" that night and go out to dinner….so went to "Jewel of India". That's one of Judy's chores…..read the travel book, take notes and come up with "things to do, places to go". Between the book and recommendations by co-workers…we have a lot of exploring to do. Dinner was fabulous!! Even better was knowing that the week was half way to being finished and I had a holiday from work the next day. Thank-you! Yup, Ethiopian Christmas falls on Jan. 7th…so no work. Yeahhhhhhhh…..sleep perhaps? Jetlag or responsibilities are messing with my sleep pattern so I am looking forward to a day off. God I sound like a civil servant!

Santa has found me in Addis. I found a bottle of beer, chocolate bar, and fingernail clippers on my pillow. I briefly wonder if Santa read the wrong letter but how ungrateful does that sound? After all, a girl just had a materialistic Christmas in Canada……and maybe Santa has a quota?

Judy: Santa also came to me! I got a bag and a CD....which probably won't listen again. But...

Anne: .Everything is closed today but the hotel is having a special Christmas brunch/dinner. We had thought to "play it by ear" but by early afternoon were scrambling to the brunch. I want you to know that we have been at the fitness center almost everyday…and Christmas day was no different. Just meant we could spend more time there….like 90minutes!!! AND everyday I have brought my lunch to work (PB and banana wrap) Just so you don't think we are constantly eating, drinking, eating, drinking…..okay, but it's after the gym!!!

Anyway…we had Christmas brunch with traditional Ethiopian foods, dancing, and singing. Doro Wat (spicy chicken stew), Tibbs (cubes of meat in a spicy sauce), Kitfu (minced raw meat), Injera (see below)…BBQ, Blue Nile perch, raw meat (we skipped that)…all chased down with the honey wine called Tej. Or what I call "gag"!

Judy: Turpentine?
Anne: The dancing is amazing….I think they are double-jointed? I don't understand why they don't dislocate shoulders or necks or hips or entire bodies. The costume or dress is beautiful. And, it will come as no surprise to most of you…but some of us also danced. They grabbed Judy first.

Judy: Of course!
Anne:It was a congo line type of dance followed by individual performance. The whole performance has been captured on video for future bribery!Then they were at the table again…first Judy then yours truly. We danced at that table, following the dancers lead. Had to shake shoulders, necks, shoulders…all to the music.

We were AWESOME!!!! Hmmmm…..you never know, we might be asked to perform on a regular basis!!!

Judy: I was better than Anne! :)

Anne: Christmas was a lot of fun. Traditionally it revolves around hours and hours in church, then feasting and games. Very few presents if any. Some families pool funds and buy a goat or a cow, which they slaughter and share. I saw a cow kicking and bucking on my way home Wednesday evening…now I understand why!!!No big screen TV's, cameras, or PS3's here for presents!!


Fun and dancing were over and Friday was back to work. Judy came into work as well, as a favour to Gech. One of my co-workers wanted a consult on an EQA presentation, so off to work we went.

Judy:  Yeah! I got out of the hotel gates!

Anne: I downloaded pictures and watched "football"….I know my place! esides our date with Gech, the main highlight of Saturday was lunch with Les and Lilly's family. Les works in Chemistry at home and I have been bringing presents to his wife, Lilly's family, the past 2 trips. We were picked up at 12:30, brought to Mekonnen's house (Lilly's brother) where other sisters, cousins, father, children…were gathered…..and treated to traditional Ethiopian dishes.

It was amazing…even the Tej was palatable! After lunch we had a traditional coffee ceremony. The green coffee beans are roasted over a small coal fire…pounded or ground using a wooden mortar and pestle……then the powder is added to boiled water…reboiled…then poured into espresso-like cups. The coffee is amazing. Can't get any fresher and the roasting gives it a beautiful nutty flavour. This coffee ceremony is a daily event in Ethiopia in every home...morning, noon and dinner.

Coffee was discovered here and it is so a part of the culture….and it is meant to be enjoyed with family/friends/neighbours….all taking time to share and chat and enjoy. No coffee makers on timers then poured into travel mugs here!!!

As an expression of our gratitude, we brought the family presents. Jude had picked up snazzy pencils and sharpeners for the children before she left home.

Judy: The kids liked me more than Anne.

Anne: I brought over bags of maple candy from Robertson's candies……and we also shared a traditional food item from our culture. Yes…..there are now 2 boxes of Kraft Dinner in Mekonnen's kitchen for the whole family to share. Can't get any more North American than that!!!! 

Judy: Sara would know that was my idea!

Anne: After coffee the whole family piled into the van and brought us back to the Hilton at 4:30, then trundled off to see the Christmas lights at the Sheraton. Life can be simple!

That and Gech made our Saturday…to say the least.

Today, Sunday, we took a guided tour out into the northern countryside. We visited Melko Futurno (archeological dig) , Adida Meriam (rock hewn cave church (12th century), and a World Heritage site...Teya Steli ( ancient burial site)…Ethiopian's version of stone henge…then late lunch at a traditional restaurant. Fascinating!

The countryside is beautiful. Volcanic rock, trees, open plains, and people everywhere.Walking, herding, riding buses, riding donkeys or horses, walking. People upon people heading to the market…working in the field……waiting for buses. I don't know where they come from!!! And animals everywhere…especially donkeys, goats, sheep and cows. All the field work is done manually. Cows are tied together and led round and round, stomping the wheat, then the farmer thrashes it to separate the grains from the stalk.To cut the wheat they use a sickle, then pile it onto a donkey to bring it to the farmstead.

Very "old fashioned"…very hard work.

Judy: Just getting to the market is hard work.....lots of walking often with sacks of wheat or tef (something like wheat that is used to made injera). Injera is a large pancake-shaped with a foam-rubber texture and a slightly sour taste. Injera takes time to prepare.....the tef dough is fermented for up to 3 days BEFORE it is cooked.

Injera is used like a spoon....a piece in your hand is used to scoop the stew (wat) into your mouth.....hmmm, we are clumsy with this! The stew (wat) is poured on the injera and strips are tore to was your "spoon". It is normal for everyone to eat off the same plate.

Anne has a problem with digesting injera, I think. ;)

Anne: Oh, we tried trippy or should Judy tried trippy....she didn't know what it was but she said that it was licking her mouth.....looked furry on one side....kinda' like a tongue BUT it wasn't tongue...it was the stomach of the animal.

Judy: Think about when you food gets in your stomach....the stomach walls are licking your food!!!!

Anne: The houses are made out of sticks, mud, straw …and use dried dung as a fuel source. Quite often there is more than one house, so a compound of family homes. They add a privacy fence made out of twigs, branches, and rocks. Looks very nice.

Sometimes the houses are painted but mostly they are mud coloured. But the grounds are very neat and everything and everyone has a place or a job. No lazing around here!!!It's like going back in time…… Well that was the week.

Sorry, I know it's like a tome so maybe one of us will have to blog more often!!! Thanks for all the emails, skype calls/chats. It's good to know what's going on back home. Especially knowing we are missing the snow and cold weather…HaHa.

Toodles for now
Ciao Square (Anne) and Circle